So is the boundary loop the “essence” of Killarney as promised by Kevin Callan? When we finished the trip it felt like we’d achieved something. It was a personal achievement however, not something you talk about to the uninitiated. Most people don’t even know what backcountry camping is, which makes it hard to appreciate the challenges of a trip such as this one. And there are much harder trips right here in Ontario. But other than adding a few detours it’s almost the longest trip that can be done in Killarney.
Killarney isn’t the biggest park in Ontario, but it is arguable one of the most spectacular. This trip visits almost every one of the most scenic lakes in the park. So in that way the Boundary Loop is the “essence” of the park. On the other hand, an essential part of Killarney for me is the wilderness. And while I’m tempted to point out that most of the route hugs the border of the park where encounters with cottagers, day trippers, and fishermen in motorboats are more likely, the point is a bit disingenuous, since even the lakes right in the heart of the park have the odd cottage. It’s difficult to find true unspoiled wilderness anywhere in Killarney. I would have liked to see fewer people, but I’m also glad that those we met all had the chance to explore and enjoy this spectacular place.
The boundary loop touches on many of the facets of this complicated park. It is a spectacular trip, and it definitely leaves one with a sense of achievement. But it isn’t the ultimate Killarney trip for me, because I know that I’ll be back for more.
Tips
- There are multiple challenges on this trip including long portages and some areas that are difficult to navigate. It isn’t a trip for novice canoeists.
- Some of the portages are long and quite steep. Distribute your gear wisely keeping the portages in mind. The perfect combination for us was two packs for gear (25lb each) and a third pack for food (almost 50lb, but we split out 15lb of this pack for portages early on in the trip to make it lighter). To finish off our load we had one ultralight canoe for two people.
- This trip passes through some very popular areas, so make sure that you book early to get the sites that you want.
- Consider your fitness level when planning the trip. If you aren’t fit at the beginning you will be by the end, but consider booking a break day early in the trip to give your muscles time to recover.
- Leave time in the schedule to account for fluctuating water levels, but if possible avoid booking the less scenic northern lakes.
- There will be some motorboat traffic on the northern border lakes, and many of the interior lakes will have cottages and some traffic as well. Even if Killarney truly becomes a wilderness park, the western portion of this route outside of the park through McGregor bay does pass by quite a few cottages.